"StudyStudyStudy" (jesterjin)
07/09/2018 at 19:45 • Filed to: None
3
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"StudyStudyStudy" (jesterjin)
07/09/2018 at 19:45 • Filed to: None | 3
| 28 |
Having a printer is awesome. I was shopping around for knobs since it seems all the ones I have are too small or too big. Then I realized, I could just find a design and print it.
First one printed nicely, but I generated a support structure to stop the ball from potentially collapsing, but it generated supports in the center threaded portion which was almost impossible to remove. The second one I didn’t and it has a bit of a collapse on a small section, but perfect threads elsewhere.
Takes about 4 hours to print, but no effort on my part, maybe 5 mins or so of setup. Filament used I think is something pretty insignificant.
daender
> StudyStudyStudy
07/09/2018 at 19:41 |
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It’s a good start! I recommend you have some sort of ballast or something to it to give it weight. A light knob will make your transmission feel extremely notchy. A weighted knob will typically yield smoother shifts due to momentum helping your movements .
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StudyStudyStudy
> daender
07/09/2018 at 19:58 |
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I’m a sucker for heavy balls...that doesn’t sound right.
I have two solid steel ones, but they were both the wrong size M8 and M12 so this will have to do for now until either find an approrpriate adapter. I don’t think I’ll be able to get much heft out of this even if I dipped it in JB weld or devcon steel putty or something of the like.
RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
> StudyStudyStudy
07/09/2018 at 20:02 |
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We have a 3D printer that I work with at our local library - weird thought, but did you try printing it upside down? If you turn a raft on, it should make a fairly easy to remove one near the top of the knob as it prints and then because it is printing them upwards at the ‘top’ (printed upside down) the threads wouldn’t have the chance to have any material in them?
osucycler
> StudyStudyStudy
07/09/2018 at 20:02 |
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Awesome work!
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daender
> StudyStudyStudy
07/09/2018 at 20:05 |
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You probably need to come up with a way to design it hollow and in two pieces so you could place some nuts inside it to weigh it down and then put the halves together. A Miata moderator lathes his own wooden knobs and actually cut up one to show the insides .
Basically five or more (if buyers want a longer shift knob) with a penny on top to prevent the threaded rod from breaking through the top of the knob.
If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
> StudyStudyStudy
07/09/2018 at 20:45 |
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Leave a cavity in the center and fill it with sand or steel shot and then seal it off with epoxy
BaconSandwich is tasty.
> StudyStudyStudy
07/09/2018 at 21:10 |
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Cast it out of aluminum? Should be doable using minimal tools.
Spoon II
> StudyStudyStudy
07/09/2018 at 21:23 |
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What kind of printer do you have? I’ve been rocking a Maker Select Mini, and so far I’ve made RC car parts for my friend, a heavy duty gimbal for cameras/nerf weaponry, and a little robot. Next up is actual car parts! Btw, have you experimented with tapping kits to clear out the thread? I’m curious how it’d work out.
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StudyStudyStudy
> Spoon II
07/10/2018 at 02:43 |
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I actually have a monoprice select mini as well! A lthough this one was printed on a mp delta. The threads at least of this size were so perfect I didn’t need to clean them out it was just the support structure that was in the way.
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StudyStudyStudy
> daender
07/10/2018 at 02:45 |
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Huh that is pretty neat and low buck. You can actually stop prints in the middle to add like a coup ler. Right now I think it serves the purpose, I kind of want to play around with some designs before I commit to weighing one down, I’ve had weighted shift knobs for years, wouldn’t mind trying a light weight one for a while.
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StudyStudyStudy
> If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
07/10/2018 at 02:46 |
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Hmm didn’t think of sand that would be a nice option I could stop it mid print and add it and continue it and have it all sealed.
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StudyStudyStudy
> RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
07/10/2018 at 03:09 |
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That’s not a bad idea, the reason I didn’t is that this one is pretty solid at 35% infill even running at 120mm/s it takes about 3.5 hours. Printing it upside down and the support structure associated with it would probably add another hour or two. Maybe an option if I really end up loving it.
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RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
> StudyStudyStudy
07/10/2018 at 07:21 |
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What material is it printed in PLA? ABS? If it’s PLA just a forewarning it does not do well in the heat of car interiors and will warp...ask me how I know, haha!
I 3D modeled and printed some snowbrush clips that mount to the parcel shelf in my Accent...had gone through 2 iterations of them in PLA but the summer heat warped them enough the brush would literally fall out. A fellow
Oppo on here kindly took my design and printed them in ABS which worked great, but as my 3D model wasn’t great, they eventually cracked....so ANOTHER awesome Oppo had them made out of UHMW, and those ones are working great! :D
https://oppositelock.kinja.com/oppos-are-awesome-1823132422
I would love to get a ABS-capable printer of my own, but don’t have the extra money at the moment....it’s awesome being able to make literally anything on a whim, haha!
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StudyStudyStudy
> RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
07/10/2018 at 14:33 |
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It usually doesn’t quite get that hot here, but worth noting.I think a lot of basic printers can print ABS, my little $150 printer says it is able to. My friend also has a printer that can do PETG which has survived a summer in my car holding my tablet so that is an option down the road.
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RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
> StudyStudyStudy
07/10/2018 at 14:36 |
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What model printer do you have?
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StudyStudyStudy
> RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
07/10/2018 at 18:24 |
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MP mini delta
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RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
> StudyStudyStudy
07/10/2018 at 18:36 |
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Cool, how do you find it? That was one of my first choices if I ever get the money to get one myself...do you use Cura for software?
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StudyStudyStudy
> RallyDarkstrike - Fan of 2-cyl FIATs, Eastern Bloc & Kei cars
07/10/2018 at 18:39 |
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I like it fine, the platform makes it harder to get prints off so I bought a glass removable surface so you don’t have to pry against the bed. It is quite a bit louder than the mini select, although it can print quite a bit faster.
I think simplif y3d is what I use for cutting. I think the printer comes with Cura, and I fired it up once, but really didn’t like the interface.
diplodicus
> StudyStudyStudy
07/12/2018 at 14:42 |
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Have you been able to get your delta to communicate via usb? I have been unable to calibrate mine because it won’t communicate. So my prints aren’t square.
What thread size does the Z use?
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StudyStudyStudy
> diplodicus
07/12/2018 at 14:55 |
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I read somewhere that USB communication was finicky, and I don’t really particularly like cables so I run the files off of the SD card port. I haven’t tried plugging it in directly since it does sit quite away from my computer. Do you not have the auto level step? Or do you mean dimensionally it is not square?
I have a 350z transmission in my 240z, the thread size is M10x1.25
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diplodicus
> StudyStudyStudy
07/12/2018 at 15:35 |
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Ya I run off the SD for printing, I put the autolevel in the g code but it wasn’t truly leveling. Apparently if you can get them to communicate via usb then you can actually see the z travel for each tower and then adjust the optical stops to get them all equal. It prints square enough where most people wouldn’t notice on things that aren’t cubes. But I know. I also have to scale the step files up 5% because of shrinkage I guess, I’m not really sure why but prints were coming out undersized.
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diplodicus
> StudyStudyStudy
07/12/2018 at 15:40 |
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What’s the thread of your m12 knobs? That might work. For some reason can’t find a m10x1.5 to m12x1.5 which I know BFI sells a knob with an m12x1.5 thread
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StudyStudyStudy
> diplodicus
07/12/2018 at 16:37 |
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I think shrinkage is kind of standard to some degree, I expect about 1mm or so of play depending on the opening.
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StudyStudyStudy
> diplodicus
07/12/2018 at 16:52 |
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H opes dashed -_- my shift knob that I want to use is apparently like an m12x1.75 stupid coarse bore.
AestheticsInMotion
> StudyStudyStudy
08/20/2018 at 18:52 |
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Hey man, are you interested in a few small welding jobs? My company needs some storage boxes attached to our f latbed via brackets, a couple handles welded on for safer access to the bed, and a few other little projects. Possibly a bit of fabrication, depending on how well our off-the-shelf solutions mate up to our vehicles. Oh, and I suppose some wiring work too depending on your available time and interest!
Either way, hope to see you at the upcoming drive!
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StudyStudyStudy
> AestheticsInMotion
08/20/2018 at 20:43 |
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I guess it would depend on what was involved. I’ve only welded a few things commercially , but they were pretty small and we didn’t generate a receipt or anything . I would be hesitant to take on something, where if it failed someone could get hurt. Plus with dynamic load and all that I’m not sure if my little 120v could burn hot enough depending on the thickness of the material, and my tig skills are really not quite there yet. I wouldn’t mind taking a look though, maybe help narrow down what you are looking for. I’ve done a little wiring on the side, but kind of the same deal, I mean you know first hand there.
Yea for sure looking forward to the drive!
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AestheticsInMotion
> StudyStudyStudy
08/21/2018 at 16:49 |
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I ’m still waiting on a few relavent parts to arrive, h ow about I let you know when they get here and then we can setup a time to look over everything?
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StudyStudyStudy
> AestheticsInMotion
08/21/2018 at 19:15 |
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Sure, happy to take a look.